Ancient Cretan Women’s Fashion: Dressing Like a Minoan

The Fashion-Savvy People of Minoan Crete

Between the beautiful frescoes that adorned palace walls and unique statuettes, we can get a solid idea of Minoan women’s fashion sense. As with most fabrics, they’ve long disintegrated; however, some linen (potentially imported from Egypt) was found in a tomb from the Pre-Palatial Period at the site of Mochlos. Speaking of Egypt, considerable evidence of Minoan attire stemmed from their detailed depictions. For instance, at Thebes (Egypt’s capital during the 18th Dynasty), there were numerous frescoes found of “Aegean foreigners” from Keftiu (what Egyptians called Crete).

Minoan Style Replicas: Reconstruction of the Clothes of Women from the Minoan Era in Crete by Dr. Bernice Jones
Minoan Style Replicas: Reconstruction of the Clothes of Women from the Minoan Era in Crete by Dr. Bernice Jones

What Clothing Minoan Women (and Some Men) Wore

Three words come to mind when it comes to Minoan women’s attire: elaborate, vibrant, and multilayered. Long skirts with girdles encircling the waist and bare-breasted bodices were a staple. But due to that aforementioned multilayered nature, let’s break it down at bit:

More Minoan style replicas by Dr. Bernice Jones
More Minoan style replicas by Dr. Bernice Jones
Mother Snake Goddess - Photo by Wikimedia Commons user Olaf Tausch
Mother Snake Goddess – Photo by Wikimedia Commons user Olaf Tausch
Minoan Snake Goddess from Walters Art Museum (Wikimedia Commons)
Minoan Snake Goddess from Walters Art Museum (Wikimedia Commons)

Polychromatic, Decorative Skirts

Typically flounced (in later periods) and ankle-length, their skirts usually had pleats, ribbons, fringes—you name it. Other key features include: multi-layered, bell-shaped, and horizontal ruffles that sometimes widened on the way down. Alternatively, there were dresses with a v-shape, wrap-type style. Sheer veils were also sometimes incorporated.

Hand-Woven Open Bodices

Akin to “cardigans”, the sleeves were typically short or went halfway down the arms. Their often uncovered breasts signified fertility. On occasion, you’ll see tassels dangling from the sleeves in frescoes. Also on occasion, bodices curve into a high collar behind the nape of the neck.

Exquisitely Adorned, Waist-Slendering Belts

These belts remind me of the traditional Cretan costume I would wear during my Greek dance performances: wide, long, and intricately decorated. And they were tied super tight; I couldn’t wait to untie that thing after those performances.

Elegant Quilted Aprons

Worn over their long skirts on the front (or both sides), it is also similar to traditional Cretan attire. Much like the belts, the attention to detail on the aprons was evident.

Fancy Hats or Tiaras

Women in power or priestesses would wear high head-dresses, hats with various patterns, or even tiaras. Every day head pieces looked a bit like thick headbands that sometimes where tied at the top of the head.

Practical Undergarments

The low-rise bloomer (anasyrida) somewhat resembled a white sack with two holes in the bottom for each leg to go through. Over that, they wore flowing shorts that are basically “athletic shorts” formed by the double-apron joining the center of the backside apron with the center of the front side.

What Accessories & Cosmetics Minoan Women Wore

Just like their clothing, Minoan women’s jewelry was elaborate as well. The main materials used were gold, metal, precious stones, or even bone, and they were sometimes stitched on. Aesthetics were clearly of central focus in Minoan civilization and there was a lot to it, so let’s take a look at each aspect individually:

Golden Minoan Necklace - Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Apeto
Golden Minoan Necklace – Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Apeto
One of the "Ladies in Blue". Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Carole Raddato
One of the “Ladies in Blue”. Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Carole Raddato
Gold bee pendant. Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Syrio
Gold bee pendant. Photo by Wikimedia Commons User Syrio
"Ariadne of Knossos" by DeviantArt user plt25
“Ariadne of Knossos” by DeviantArt user plt25

The Early “Grecian-style” Sandal

Minoan women wore fitted sandals with high straps (similar to what the later Ancient Greeks wore) and short boots. Within homes and sanctuaries, they were barefoot.

Fine Jewelry

As mentioned, the Minoans crafted jewelry out of an array of high-quality, usually imported materials, including metal and precious stones (among them: gold, silver, carnelian, and amethyst). Spherical beads called psifoi were also made from faience (glazed ceramic). The kinds of jewelry seemed all-inclusive, from pendants, armbands, and necklaces, to bracelets and anklets.

Extravagant Hairstyles

With emphasis on aesthetic beauty, it’s no surprise that Minoan women took great care of their face, body, and hair. One of their hairstyles featured a bun with small curls on the forehead and curled sideburns. For a more striking look, curled pieces of hair with secured/decorated with pins, beads, and floral-shaped clips. At times, they accentuated their look with bright ribbons, stylish nets, diadems (a bejeweled crown or headband), or hats.

Skincare

Many excavations point to olive oil being used topically to hydrate skin and give their tresses an unmatched sheen. This beauty “secret” is still used to this day.

Essential Oils and Perfume

Essential oils and perfume were extracted from plants like rose, nutmeg, anise, coriander, honey, and wine. Perfume-making workshops have been discovered at the several palaces, including Zakros, where excavators found amphorae with perfume residues as well as listings of aromatic plants.

Distinct Make-up

Their typical look was high-contrast, with a pale face (achieved by the application of white powder) as well as red lips, blushed cheeks, and red nails. The iconic feature of their make-up regimen was painting their eyelids with black paint, which was reminiscent of the Egyptian cat-eye.

*Click here to see my attempts at Minoan-inspired looks, mostly working with what I already had.

Encyclopedia: Fashion in the Minoan Period
Minoans: Peoples of the Past by J. Lesley Fitton
World History.Encycloedia: Beauty in the Bronze Age

Honoring My Cretan Ancestors with a Minoan-Inspired Ritual

For my 33rd birthday, I decided to honor my Cretan ancestors by conducting a Minoan-inspired ritual. I place emphasis on the word inspired because we don’t know the full scope of Minoan religion, but we are aware of quite a bit from frescoes, statues, and other archeological findings. Therefore, I integrated a mix of my research, Cretan traditions, and intuition. Speaking of ancestry, here’s a post about a mtDNA study that connects modern day Cretans to the Minoans, especially from the maternal line.

Offerings

Based off residue found in various storage vessels throughout Knossos and other palaces, we more or less know what the Minoans ate. So, with that in mind, I filled a bowl with kalamata olives from Crete (you’d be surprised how easy it is to find Greek olives, even if you don’t live in Greece – ask me for recommendations) and another container with Greek honey, which is a known offering to deities in both the Minoan and Hellenic religion.

“Minoan” Music

We can only more or less guess what their music was like, but there are plenty of artists who have created Minoan-inspired tracks with some Ancient Greek flair, so I had that playing in the background during the ritual. Here is one of the songs:

Altar Setup

I then set up an altar, mindfully placing a statuette of The Snake Goddess (or Priestess) I bought from Knossos at the center on a square block of quartz with a statuette of The Lily Prince (or Priest-King, or perhaps even deity) alongside her. I also included a candle infused with anise and extra virgin olive oil sourced from Greece as well as incense. Additionally, I carved The Snake Goddesses’ name into the candle: Atano Djuwaja. I ended up walking slowly towards the altar with a ceramic bowl of my offerings to place by her. I included a few photos below so you can see the whole thing:

Ritual Clothing

While I wouldn’t say my outfit is a replica of what is seen on frescoes, I tried my best to find clothing that captured the essence of Minoan fashion. I also used my minimal sewing skills to add some details to the jacket’s sleeves. My apron is a lot less elaborate, but I made do. The style of Minoan women was known for its decorative jewelry, so I wore gold and silver dangling earrings (including snake cuff earrings), gold bangle bracelets, gold rings, and a brass labrys Snake Goddess necklace. I also was generous on the eye-liner to mirror the Minoan (and Ancient Egyptian) cat-eye look.

Me in a Minoan-inspired outfit

Minoan Tarot Card Reading

From what we know, the Minoans didn’t use “tarot cards” or anything similar, but my Cretan grandmother passed down a similar card-reading tradition to me. Also, I came across a beautiful Minoan tarot deck by the talented and equally knowledgeable Ellen Lorenzi-Prince (here is my review of the deck) that I just had to buy as a birthday present for myself. The card I pulled was extremely fitting:

Dress provides an opportunity for a person to show on the outside a small part of who they are on the inside.
Demonstration of belonging is necessary for the connection of the individual to the group they depend upon.
Display is not superficial when meaningful.

-Ellen Lorenzi-Prince

I think this is a good spot to end my post. Thanks for reading! This ritual of mine was deeply meaningful and emotional, and I’m honored to share it with all of you.

*All the images that are not my own (i.e. olives, anise) are from Pixabay.

The Minoan Mother Goddess

Multifaceted Goddess or Many Deities?

According to numerous scholars, the primary deity in the Minoan religion was a multifaceted mother goddess who was solar in nature. Usually, “she” was depicted alongside animals (both mythical and native to the land), a male consort, and/or priestesses. While there is no true consensus, she is considered one deity with various aspects, including a mountain, dove, poppy, snake, and fertility goddess. This presumed multidimensional goddess would eventually become the Artemis, Athena, Ariadne, Medusa, etc. of the Ancient Greek pantheon. At the same time, there’s a good chance that their religion was polytheistic, and these were all separate gods with their own unique attributes.

Snake Goddess from the Palace of Knossos – Wikimedia User Photo by Chris73

The Maternal Snake Goddess (or Priestess)

What typically comes to mind for the Minoan Mother Goddess is the Snake Goddess figurine that was restored by British archeologist Arthur Evans along with Danish artist Halvor Baggeartist. The main problematic elements are that her head and part of her arm were missing and it’s not 100% certain that she was a true goddess. In general, it’s been difficult to distinguish between deity, priestess, ruler, etc. in Minoan art. However, the symbolism behind The Snake Goddess in particular is creation, fertility, welfare of the household, and wisdom. And if we were to take a retrospective approach from an Ancient Greek perspective to this particular deity depiction, we can see some of those traits in goddesses like Athena, goddess of wisdom and protectress of cities. In fact, “Atana Potnia” (thought to be Mistress Athena) is one of the Minoan Mother Goddess’ many names (that could be the names of other goddesses if the religion is in fact polytheistic).

Illustration of “Faience figure from Knossos – A votary of the Snake Goddess” in The Outline of History written by H.G. Wells and illustrated by J. F. Horrabin

A Breakdown of Key Mother Goddess Traits

Domains: renewal, household welfare, wisdom, renewal, fertility, sexuality, creation
Other Names: Diktynna, Great Mother Goddess, Great Goddess, Atano Djuwaja, Atana Potinija, Atana Potnia, Mater Theia
Deity Type: cthonic, creatress, household
Symbols: sun, various animals (especially snakes). A cat is depicted atop the Snake Goddess figurine’s crown, but that is a controversial addition to this day. In fact, a replica that I bought from the Knossos gift shop has an owl on top.
Precursor to: Artemis Eileithyia (Greek goddess of childbirth) and Athena Parthenos (Greek virgin warrior goddess)
Goddess Equivalent: Neith (Egyptian goddess of creation, war, and weaving)
Other Associations: Ariadne (goddess of labyrinths and Cretan Princess), Medusa (one of the three Gorgons in Greek mythology)

Art History Resources: Snake Goddess
Pantheon (Encyclopedia Mythica: Minoan Snake Goddess